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Buyers Guide

In this section, we bring you help and advice on what to look for if you are thinking of buying a Mk1 RS2000. For current owners, the articles may help you learn a little more about the car you already own.

 

MK1 RS2000

 

The most important thing is to make sure that the car you're being offered, really is an RS2000. A common practice is to drop a 2-litre Pinto engine into a bog standard Escort, bolt on a few trim items and pass it off as a genuine RS.

Firstly, look at the car's documents and check that the chassis number on the Registration Document, matches that on the car. The chassis plate is located under the bonnet on the front slam panel and, on a genuine RS, the first four digits should be BFAT. Again, on a genuine RS there should be a second plate on the slam panel, the body plate (often referred to as the AVO plate). This helps identify the car's original build specification. The links below may help you to decode the underbonnet chassis and body plates.

MK1 RS2000's were built using a Type 49 bodyshell. This was a strengthened version of the standard Escort shell and had  reinforced suspension legs and additional strengthening plates on the inner wing, around the front strut tops.

 

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Check the underside of the car and make sure that the car has rear radius arms fitted. These mount to the back axle and run forward and affix to the floor. Whilst underneath, have a look at the boot floor which should have a number of bolts protruding. These were used to fit a stone deflector, although very few cars actually have the deflector fitted.

Another point worth noting, is that all RS2000's had a black interior headlining and the rear wheel arches were rolled over to make room for the wider tyres fitted.

Few RS2000s have remained completely standard, but because the Pinto engine has so much tuning potential, minor modifications which boost power shouldn't cause any reliability problems. Check for a noisy camshaft, which wears if oil changes are neglected. The gearbox is strong and long-lasting, and the straightforward suspension is not noted for any unnatural wear problems.

Rust is usually quite obvious, with sills, body seams, door bottoms and underbonnet strut tops often affected. Other problem areas are the boot floor, normally caused by water leaking in passed worn bootlid seals, and the rear wheel arches.

The following links cover various articles in more detail. We hope to add more on a regular basis and if you have an article we can use, please email it to us.

Decoding the Chassis Plate

Decoding the Body Plate

Instruments and Controls

Option Packs

Four-Spoke RS Alloy Wheels

Classic Car Insurance Guide

 

 

 

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